Grooming no longer a hairy subject for men

JORDAN MOSHE

The belief that beauty treatments are “not for men” is on the decline, with the number of men adhering to grooming routines on the rise. Equally, Jewish men have started taking grooming seriously, making beauty treatments a priority.

“Men are going for treatments, and loving it,” says Justine Lever, the owner of Beauty in The Mews salon in Johannesburg. “Men account for a good 40% of our clientele, and the numbers keep going up.”

Lever says that when she started working 18 years ago, she never thought she’d see the day that men would embrace beauty treatments. But over the past few years, men have begun to understand the value of self-care routines, becoming more confident over time.

“The few that did come in a few years ago came in through the back, and wanted to use the private treatment rooms only,” she laughs. “Today, they walk in all the time, and have no issue with sitting in the front of the salon, and enjoying their treatments where everyone can see them.”

Men are also starting to book appointments of their own volition, though some of them started going for grooming appointments at the instruction of their wives. After getting a taste of pampering, however, they were soon back for regular visits, and have become better clients than their female counterparts.

“The women come in for the losh (gossip),” jokes Lever. “Men require far less attention and maintenance. They never forget an appointment, always arrive on time, and on the whole, need far less admin. They actually make the best customers.”

These include dozens of Jewish clients coming in for anything from a laser treatment to an eyebrow tint. Other requested treatments include manicures, facials, massages, waxing (including nostrils and ears), and threading.

Says Lever, “Manicures and pedicures are hugely popular among men. I have a client who comes in regularly every two weeks for a manicure. He said that because he signs multimillion-rand deals, people tend to look at his hands to ascertain two things: the pen he’s using, and the state of his nails.

“These things have started mattering to men. No segment of the beauty industry is exclusively for women anymore.”

Beauty is, in fact, redefining masculinity. Bonafide Beards barbershop’s owner, Monique Fleming, says that the rise of both the meticulous metrosexual and the rugged lumberjack look made the trend of caring for one’s appearance take off in recent years.

“Men [have] realised that there’s more to cleanliness than showering,” she says. “The hipster beard trend may be over, but the impact it had on how seriously men take their appearance is certainly lasting. More men are embracing a care routine.”

Fleming says that this has created a new class of man, born where metrosexual meets rugged “manly man”. “The meticulous care the metrosexual man gives his appearance has been taken up by people who don’t fit this class. These are hairy guys who are out there doing ‘manly’ things, but who take the time to look after their appearance. At the same time, professionals like bankers are growing beards instead of shaving. There’s a new space taking shape.

“I’ve had product orders from an Afrikaans farmer in the Free State,” she says. “Even the typically rugged man who lives on a remote farm wants to care for his beard. Grooming is certainly breaking down borders.”

The male grooming trend is a growing category worldwide. David Simmons, media and events manager at Sorbet Man, says that men of all ages and nationalities have embraced all aspects of grooming, and this trend is not segmented within different communities.

“From a global perspective, big brands promote grooming to an extent that men feel more empowered to look good. There are more male grooming bars opening, which encourage men to look after themselves.”

The self-care continues at home, too, with men buying all types of skincare and beauty products to use after treatments. “Clients contact me for suggestions on what products they should use,” says Lever. “I have men asking me after a treatment what nail cream I use because they want to buy some for themselves. They are becoming increasingly diligent about their care routines.”

Both Lever and Fleming believe that the industry will continue to grow, though it might be some time before the more religious Jewish man takes to such treatments.

Says Lever, “Most men are no longer shy to ask about treatments, and have any kind of treatment done. Once they get a taste, they’re hooked. Of course, the Jewish clients are the more secular ones, but the numbers keep increasing.”

Fleming says she hopes these numbers will soon include frum (religiously observant) men. “I hope these men will soon make use of what is available out there,” she says. “There are so many of them with gorgeous beards, and with the right product, they can really change their image for themselves and their wives.

“There is no one trend or grooming routine for anyone. It’s a very personal thing, and men need to find what works for them. I once went for an eyebrow threading and cried for days afterwards, so I stick to wax. Some men sit down for threading, and don’t make a sound.

“You don’t need to be a metrosexual to groom yourself,” she says. “You can still be manly, and cross the perceived boundaries of grooming.”