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Friedman brooch is queen’s jewellery
Twelve years ago, South African jeweller Kevin Friedman was asked by the Botswana government to make a brooch for a statesman. He was never told who the person was, and he was not allowed to share any details of what he had made. He thought about that brooch over the years, but could never have imagined who it was really given to.
TALI FEINBERG
“I often wonder about several of my creations, and if they are bringing joy, which is the only reason for existing,” he says. So, when he saw Her Majesty, the Queen of England wearing an attractive, unusual brooch a few weeks ago, it piqued his interest.
Describing the moment, he says, “I thought, ‘That’s pretty! It’s not something that she usually wears; that looks like something I would make. Hold on, it has my signature line… no I’m just imagining it, move on.” So I started reading the article, and I was like, ‘Yikes, that’s mine!’”
Friedman was in such shock, he put it out on his personal Instagram and Facebook pages, which are only available to friends. “But before I knew it, my friends were all so excited to share my joy!” Since then, he has been interviewed by multiple media outlets clamouring to share this good-news story.
So how did Friedman get to this point? “I am a seventh-generation jeweller, and was inspired by my father and grandfather,” he explains. “I did my apprenticeship in their factory, and I studied the history of jewellery at Sotheby’s Institute of Art in London. I continued my education by both attending and lecturing at international jewellery conferences.”
At the time of making the queen’s brooch, Friedman “had just completed a high profile commission of setting the Ponahalo diamond with an essential African flavour, so I was approached to take on the commission of designing a brooch representing Botswana”.
The process of making such a piece includes the initial concept, translating it into a drawing and interpreting the sketch into a three dimensional sculpture, and then making the individual frame for each of the stones.
“Brooches are one of my favourite jewellery items, so I dived straight in,” he recalls. “The national products of Botswana are cattle, millet, and diamonds. I thought it through, and just drew a ripe grain head on its leaves. I used recycled gold, and the diamonds were all custom cut to fit the drawing in exact proportions. The design process took a few days, but then I was given three weeks to manufacture the piece once it was approved.”
Friedman says this is a “dream-come-true moment” because “Her Majesty the Queen wears jewellery extremely well, and it’s one of those unattainable goals to see her wearing one of my treasures. Each and every person that wears my treasures with pride and joy is my dream. So the smile when I unveil a new creation that was individually designed for a client is really my motivation!”
Friedman says the value of the piece comes from its provenance. “The reality is that provenance really is the true value of a piece of jewellery. The history of this piece as a presentation from the heart of Botswana to the queen and her family would increase the value of the item more than 100 to 300 times.”
Other clients of his include Jerry Hall, Joan Collins, and Charlize Theron, and he has collaborated with people like Carolyn Steyn, a Zulu queen, and Elana Afrika.
He says his Jewish identity has definitely influenced his life. “Growing up in a traditional orthodox environment filled with unique rituals and ceremonies, one can’t deny the underlying influence in everything I do, the same way that living in Africa has a strong resonance in my creations.”
To young people wanting to get into this field, he says, “Creating a piece of jewellery from original design to completion is a hugely satisfying process and a jeweller’s sole purpose is to give pleasure to the wearer and the viewer. There are so many entrance opportunities in this field. Working in a retail store and having the opportunity to handle precious items daily, or going to a jewellery school or college to get a technical training gives a great foundation.”
Friedman says that the field is constantly changing, with discoveries of new gemstones or new uses for old gemstones. “With the international increase in crime, a whole new category of ‘safe Johannesburg jewellery’ has emerged, which opens opportunities for design.”
He is grateful for the support of the South African Jewish community, “both in encouragement and exceptional special commissions, like the amazing opportunity to create three sets of uniquely South African beaded Klei Torah for Temple Israel in Hillbrow”.